LML EGR delete coolant hose routing
If you are looking to do an LML EGR delete, one of the first steps is to determine the correct routing for your coolant hoses. There are a few different ways that you can route your hoses, but the most important thing is to make sure that they are not going to come into contact with any hot surfaces.
One popular way to route the hoses is through the radiator fins. This keeps the hoses away from the hot engine and exhaust components, and also helps to keep them cooler.
Another option is to run the hoses along the outside of the engine, but this can be more difficult to do and may require some modification to your engine bay.
Once you have determined the best route for your hoses, the next step is to install the EGR delete kit. This will usually involve replacing the EGR cooler with a block-off plate, and also removing the EGR valve itself.
After the EGR delete kit is installed, you will need to re-route your coolant hoses to their new location. Make sure that they are not going to come into contact with any hot surfaces, and check for any leaks before starting your engine.
With the LML EGR delete completed, you will notice an increase in engine performance and efficiency. Your truck will run cooler and produce fewer emissions, all while saving you money on fuel costs.
What is an LML EGR delete and why would you want one?
An LML EGR delete is a device that helps remove the excess emissions from your engine, thus improving its overall performance. Many people choose to use an LML EGR delete because it can increase fuel economy by up to 5%, and it also extends the life of your engine by preventing the build-up of harmful deposits. In addition, it can also help your engine run cooler, which is especially beneficial in hot weather conditions.
How to install an LML EGR delete?
Installing an LML EGR delete is a relatively simple process, and can be done in about an hour with basic hand tools. The first thing you’ll need to do is remove the old emissions system from your engine. This includes the EGR valve, as well as the associated hoses and tubing. Once this is done, you’ll need to install the new EGR delete kit in its place. This usually involves bolting it into place and then connecting the necessary hoses and tubing. Finally, you’ll need to reconnect any electrical wires that were disconnected during the removal of the old emissions system.
Coolant hose routing for an LML EGR delete
The coolant hose routing for an LML EGR delete is relatively simple. The main cooling hose will come from the radiator and will go to the water pump. From there, it will go to the thermostat housing, and then back to the radiator. There will also be a small bypass hose that goes from the water pump to the thermostat housing. This bypass hose helps ensure that the coolant circulates properly even when the engine is cold. Finally, there will be a return hose that goes from the thermostat housing back to the radiator. This return hose ensures that any excess coolant is returned to the radiator so it can be used again.
Tips and tricks for installing an LML EGR delete
When installing an LML EGR delete, it’s important to follow the instructions that come with the kit. In most cases, these instructions will be fairly straightforward and easy to follow. However, there are a few tips and tricks that can make the process even easier.
One tip is to use an anti-seize compound on all of the bolts that are used to secure the EGR delete kit in place. This will help prevent them from seizing up and makes removal much easier if it’s ever needed.
Another trick is to use a vacuum pump to test for leaks after installation is complete. This helps ensure that everything is properly sealed and there are no leaks in the system. Simply connect the vacuum pump to the inlet and outlet of the EGR delete kit, and turn it on. If there are no leaks, the system will hold a vacuum.
Finally, it’s always a good idea to keep an eye on your engine’s temperature gauge after installation is complete. This will help you ensure that the coolant is circulating properly and that the engine is not running too hot. If you notice any unusual behavior, be sure to check the hoses and connections to make sure everything is still tight and secure.
Remove the factory coolant hose from the EGR valve.
Using a pair of pliers, remove the hose clamp from the factory coolant hose.
Carefully pull the hose off of the EGR valve.
Install the provided coolant hose in its place.
Secure the new coolant hose in place with the provided hose clamp.
Reconnect any electrical wires that were disconnected during the removal of the old emissions system.
Start the engine and check for leaks.
If everything is installed correctly, there should be no leaks. If you do see any leaks, make sure that all of the connections are tight and secure. Also, check the hoses to make sure they are properly connected.
Monitor the engine temperature gauge after installation is complete.
Make sure that the engine is not running too hot. If you notice any unusual behavior, be sure to check the hoses and connections to make sure everything is still tight and secure.
Route the delete coolant hose between the turbo and firewall.
Start the engine and allow it to idle for a few minutes. Check for coolant leaks and make sure the hoses are not kinked or pinched. If everything looks good, you can proceed to the next step.
If you have a manual transmission, put the car in gear and gently rev the engine up to about 1500 RPM. If you have an automatic transmission, put the car in drive and gently rev the engine up to about 1500 RPM. Hold the engine at this RPM for about 15-20 seconds, then let off the gas and allow the engine to return to idle speed. Again, check for coolant leaks and make sure all hoses are routed correctly.
Shut off the engine and allow it to cool completely. Once the engine is cooled, check the coolant level and add more if necessary. Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes. Check for coolant leaks one last time. If everything looks good, you can take your car for a test drive!
Secure the delete coolant hose with zip ties or clamps
so it can’t move and possibly come off the spigot. You don’t want any coolant leaks.
Remove the radiator cap to help release any pressure in the system.
Using a catch pan, open the petcock at the bottom of the radiator to drain it. If your car doesn’t have a petcock, you’ll need to remove the bottom hose from the radiator to drain it. Loosen the hose clamp with a screwdriver and wiggle the hose off the barb.
Once all the coolant has drained, close the petcock or reattach the bottom hose (be sure to tighten that clamp!).
Fill ‘er up by pouring clean water into the radiator until it reaches the top of the fill neck. Do not overfill it—you’ll need to leave room for the expansion tank.
Put the radiator cap back on.
Now, start the engine and let it run until it reaches operating temperature. Doing this will help flush any residual crud from the system.
shut off the engine and let it cool completely. Now you can remove the radiator cap (carefully!) and check the level of your coolant mixture. Top it off if necessary, using a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze. Replace the radiator cap and you’re good to go!
Reinstall the factory coolant hose on the EGR valve.
The hose is held in place with a small spring clip. Be sure to reinstall the clip or the hose will eventually come off and cause a vacuum leak.
Reinstall the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing. The hose is held in place with a spring clip. Be sure to reinstall the clip or the hose will eventually come off and cause a coolant leak.
Fill the radiator with coolant and start the engine. Check for leaks at all of the connections that were disconnected.
Once you have confirmed that there are no leaks, you can proceed to the next step. If you do have a leaking connection, make sure to fix it before continuing. Next, we’ll move on to testing the EGR system.
FAQs about LML EGR deletes
Q: What is an LML EGR delete?
A: An LML EGR delete is a device that helps remove the excess emissions from your engine, thus improving its overall performance.
Q: How does an LML EGR delete work?
A: By removing the old emissions system and installing the new EGR delete kit, it can help your engine run cooler and extend its life.
Q: What are some tips for installing an LML EGR delete?
A: Use an anti-seize compound on all of the bolts, use a vacuum pump to test for leaks, and keep an eye on your engine’s temperature gauge after installation is complete.
Q: How long does it take to install an LML EGR delete?
A: In most cases, it can be installed in about an hour. However, it’s always a good idea to follow the instructions that come with the kit.
Q: Is there anything else I need to know about LML EGR delete?
A: Be sure to keep an eye on your engine’s temperature gauge after installation is complete. If you notice any unusual behavior, be sure to check the hoses and connections to make sure everything is still tight and secure.
LML EGR Delete Coolant Hose Routing Step by Step
1. Remove the upper radiator hose from the plastic T-fitting on the passenger side of the engine.
2. Remove the lower radiator hose from the water pump.
3.Remove the power steering cooler lines from the brackets on the driver side of the radiator.
4. Remove the overflow hose from the radiator cap.
5. Unclip and remove the fan shroud.
6. Remove the fan and fan clutch assembly.
7. Remove the belt from the alternator and power steering pump pulleys.
8. Mark and remove the four bolts holding the water pump in place (two bolts on top, two bolts on bottom). Gently pull the water pump away from the timing cover being careful not to damage the gasket.
9. Remove the water pump pulley.
10. Remove the lower radiator hose from the water pump.
11. Remove the upper radiator hose from the plastic T-fitting on the passenger side of the engine.
12. Pull the EGR cooler and related components out as an assembly and set aside (be careful not to damage any of the fins on the cooler). The EGR cooler is held in place by four bolts, two bolts on each end (one 10mm bolt and one 8mm bolt).
13. Remove the two bolts holding the up-pipe to the turbo (one 10mm bolt and one 14mm nut). There is also a bracket holding the up-pipe to the turbo that needs to be removed.
14. Remove the bolt holding the heat shield in place (this is a 14mm bolt and nut). Remove the bracket from behind the head (this gets replaced with an exhaust manifold brace).
15. Remove the two bolts holding the intake hose to the throttle body (one 12mm bolt on each side). There are also two 10mm bolts and nuts holding it down on top of one another right below these, remove them as well. Unclip the electrical connection and set it aside for reassembly.
16. Remove both banjo fittings from the oil cooler located directly under the intake hose going into the throttle body. Use caution when removing hoses as they can get stuck on fitting.
17. Remove the two bolts holding the oil cooler in place (one 14mm bolt on each side).
18. Remove the lower radiator hose from the water pump.
19. Remove the upper radiator hose from the plastic T-fitting on the passenger side of the engine.
20. Pull the EGR cooler and related components out as an assembly and set them aside (be careful not to damage any of the fins on the cooler). The EGR cooler is held in place by four bolts, two bolts on each end (one 10mm bolt and one 8mm bolt).
21. Remove the two bolts holding the up-pipe to the turbo (one 10mm bolt and one 14mm nut). There is also a bracket holding the up-pipe to the turbo that needs to be removed.
22. Remove the bolt holding the heat shield in place (this is a 14mm bolt and nut). Remove the bracket from behind the head (this gets replaced with an exhaust manifold brace).
23. Remove the two bolts holding the intake hose to the throttle body (one 12mm bolt on each side). There are also two 10mm bolts and nuts holding it down on top of one another right below these, remove them as well. Unclip the electrical connection and set it aside for reassembly.
24. Remove both banjo fittings from the oil cooler located directly under the intake hose going into throttle body. Use caution when removing hoses as they can get stuck on fitting.
25. Remove the two bolts holding the oil cooler in place (one 14mm bolt on each side).
26. Gently pull oil cooler away from the engine being careful not to damage the gasket or fins on the cooler. Set aside for reinstallation later.
27. Remove the upper radiator hose from the plastic T-fitting on the passenger side of the engine.
28. Remove the lower radiator hose from the water pump.
29. Remove power steering cooler lines from brackets on the driver side of the radiator.
30. Remove the overflow hose from the radiator cap.
31. Unclip and remove the fan shroud.
32. Remove fan and fan clutch assembly.
33. Remove belt tensioner and belt (NOTE: Make sure engine is cool before removing belt tensioner to prevent injury).
34. Remove power steering pump mounting bracket from the top of engine using 14mm socket. (Two bolts)
35. Loosen alternator hold down the bolt-on passenger side of the engine (12mm socket).
36. Pull the fan shroud out of way as far as possible to gain access to the lower radiator hose clamp at the thermostat housing. Grip radiator hose with one hand and pull up on clamp with pliers or screwdriver until hose separates from housing (no coolant will spill out because no coolant enters the upper part of the radiator at this time). DO NOT disconnect upper radiator hoses yet!>
37. Remove upper radiator hose from housing on the lower left side of engine (10MM socket). DO NOT disconnect upper radiator hoses until instructed below!
38.Loosen and remove final clamp holding down top of heater pipe that runs from cabin to engine (12mm socket). Pull hose away from intake manifold and set aside for reinstallation later.
39.Using a 10mm socket, loosen both bolts that hold down the coolant crossover pipe at the firewall. This will allow enough room to pull it out without having to take off the three wiring harness connectors attached on top of this pipe as well as one connector at each end (T-fitting style). The right bolt has two nuts on it, remove both nuts.
40.Remove intake manifold bolts (There are two different sizes, so pay attention to where each one goes). There are a total of 16 bolts. 8 of them are 14mm and the other 8 are 12mm.
41.Remove throttle body (4 12mm bolts) and set aside for reinstallation later.
42.Gently pull up on intake manifold while supporting it with one hand. You may have to wiggle it a bit to get it past the coolant crossover pipe and EGR valve. Once it’s clear, set it aside in a safe place for reinstallation later.
43.Using a 10mm socket, remove the stud located on the passenger side of the cylinder head.
44.Remove all 16 exhaust manifold bolts (14mm). There are two different lengths, so pay attention to where each one goes.
45.Gently pull up on exhaust manifold while supporting it with one hand. You may have to wiggle it a bit to get it past the turbocharger. Once it’s clear, set it aside in a safe place for reinstallation later.
46.Remove oil return line from back of turbocharger (10mm socket). This is a good time to inspect your oil return line and make sure there are no cracks or holes in it. Replace if necessary.
47.Remove turbocharger mounting bracket bolts (14mm socket). There are two different lengths, so pay attention to where each one goes.
48.Remove turbocharger from exhaust manifold being careful not to damage gasket. Set aside for reinstallation later.
49.Remove cylinder head bolts (There are two different sizes, so pay attention to where each one goes). Start by removing the eight 14mm bolts located along the outer edge of the head. Then remove the eight 12mm bolts in the middle of the head.
50.Gently pull up on cylinder head while supporting it with one hand until it’s clear of the block. You may have to wiggle it a bit to get past the coolant crossover pipe. Once it’s clear, set it aside in a safe place for reinstallation later.
51.Remove old head gasket from block using a putty knife or scraper. Be careful not to damage the surface of the block.
52.Inspect surfaces of block and cylinder head for any defects such as cracks, nicks, or gouges. If any are found, they must be repaired before proceeding.
53.Clean surfaces of block and cylinder head with a wire brush or sandpaper to remove any debris or old gasket material. Be sure to clean the oil return passage in the block as well as the water jacket around the cylinders.
54.Place new head gasket on block making sure it’s seated properly.
55.Place cylinder head on block being careful not to damage the head gasket.
56.Install cylinder head bolts (There are two different sizes, so pay attention to where each one goes). Start by installing the eight 12mm bolts in the middle of the head. Then install the eight 14mm bolts along the outer edge of the head. Torque bolts to 89 ft-lbs (119 Nm) in sequence shown using a torque wrench and socket.
57.Install turbocharger onto exhaust manifold being careful not to damage gasket. Torque bolts to 18 ft-lbs (24 Nm) using a torque wrench and socket.
58.Install turbocharger mounting bracket bolts (14mm socket). There are two different lengths, so pay attention to where each one goes.
59.Install oil return line on back of turbocharger using a new gasket and the 10mm bolt removed earlier. Torque bolt to 18 ft-lbs (24 Nm) using a torque wrench and socket.
60.Install exhaust manifold onto cylinder head being careful not to damage gasket. Using a new gasket, start by installing all 16 bolts (14mm), but do not tighten them yet. Then install the 8 shorter 14mm bolts first followed by the 8 longer 14mm bolts last. Torque bolts in this order: 2 short 14mm, 4 middle 14mm, and 2 long 14mm.
61.Start engine and verify that no leaks are present. If leaks are still present, they must be repaired before driving the vehicle.
Conclusion
Once you have completed these steps, your turbocharger should be reinstalled and securely attached to your engine. This can help improve your car’s overall performance by increasing horsepower and torque, as well as improving fuel efficiency. Be sure to check with a professional mechanic if you have any additional questions or concerns about installing or maintaining your turbocharger. Good luck!
