I wanted to talk a little bit about bulletproofing your 6.0 and you know if you’re looking at a 6.0 how to tell if it was bullet-proofed and I’ll go a little bit more into that as well but the term bulletproof was actually a marketing term buy bulletproof diesel and technically to say your truck has been bulletproof.
You have to be running bulletproof diesel parts bulletproof diesel water pump Hickam arp head studs the air to oil cooler and their EGR cooler and those five things allow you to say that your truck has been bullet-proofed.
Now going all-out with bulletproof diesel products is expensive and not 100% necessary just go to their site and take a look at their prices good quality parts but really expensive so what most people mean when they say their truck is bulletproof is that they mean it’s been studded with new head gaskets and perhaps an EGR delete or an EGR upgrade or an EGR plug where they actually weld the port.
where the EGR takes in exhaust gases they weld that shut so it looks stuck but there’s no more flow of exhaust gases into the intake manifold now really
In my opinion, all you need for a reliable truck is make sure your victim is within spec you know 46 to 48 volts head studs with new head gaskets om or perhaps fel-pro and oring the heads while you have it out may as well and an EGR delete or upgrade
The term bulletproof to a lot of people is just head studs head gasket and maybe an EGR delete and really that’s all you need for a super reliable setup as long as your victim is within spec your oil and coolant temperatures are within fifteen degrees maximum
Bulletproof Diesel’s latest definition is to replace 4 out of 5 of the following…
- Bulletproof Remote Oil Cooler
- Bulletproof EGR Cooler
- Bulletproof Water Pump
- Bulletproof FICM
- ARP Head Studs